On the morning of the 28th July it was, yet again, raining. So another slow morning reading my Lonely Planet guide led eventually to lunch with the Swedes and a Frenchman called Cyril. A group of Dutchmen showed up who I’d also seen back in Yangshuo.

By mid-afternoon, after a siesta, the rain stopped and I headed for the hills to complete another section of my map. This time it was the middle section on the north side, which led me up to what appeared – once I reached it – to be the highest of the surrounding peaks – even higher than the high point of the day before.

Dinner was half a plate of noodles, since my stomach hadn’t felt in the best shape during the walk.

A remarkable change in the weather occurred on 29th July. For once it wasn’t raining when I woke up, and glorious sunshine poured through the window. I decided to head for the Labrang Monastery to get some photos of this in the sunshine. There was some kind of “jam session” going on with a group of monks sitting playing percussion and chanting, while other monks did a kind of religious dance.

After some photos I decided to head up the hills on the opposite side to complete that section of my map. I headed over the river, taking a few more photos.

Too late, I realised that I had forgotten both food and sunblock. To avoid a sunburnt nose (it was already a little pink) I fashioned a paper “nose cover” from a page in my notebook! On the highest point that I reached were a couple of people who were sketching drawings of the view.

On the way down I met Diana on the way up – she had thus-far resisted the idea of going hiking, so I was pleased to see she was finally out enjoying the scenery. I crossed the valley and climbed up the shelf just behind the monastery. From there I was able to get close to the golden roof of the monastery which gleamed in the afternoon sun.

After a late lunch at the English Menu restaurant, I went to investigate the bus station, to see about getting a ticket for the following day to head out, but there was nobody there. So to make the most of the remaining time and dry weather, I headed off on the final unexplored section of hills behind the monastery.

This took me way to the north along a rounded ridge towards an elevated plateau.

There was nobody around. Once up on top, I sat for a long while contemplating the view… and life generally. I admitted to myself that I really was having a thoroughly good time, realised that the decision to undertake this trip has been the best one I had ever made, and promised myself that this won’t be the last time I head off with a small backpack to explore the world.

I took a lot of bearings of the other peaks I had been up, to complete my map. I don’t think it will win any prizes for elegance… but geographically it is reasonably accurate.

Back in Xiahe, at the English menu café, I got talking to an East German guy who is studying in Leningrad. This reminded me that within 3 weeks it’s likely that I will be in Eastern Europe. Right now, here in Xiahe, even Leningrad seems uncomfortably close to home…!

Thinking about returning west gives me mixed feelings. Europe really does seem a long long way away, and I’m honestly still in no hurry at all to go there…