98. To the North Coast of Bali

On the morning of the 7th May, I found that my temperature was normal at last, and I felt a more stable. But I was very weak from having not eaten well for several days. I spent the day reading, and then rang my sister in Bedfordshire to report in – I had to reverse the charges this time. By late afternoon I decided that I should be able to go motorbiking again the following day. After arranging the rental, I had a decent meal in a restaurant, and then had an early night.

In the morning of 8th May I felt a bit stronger, checked out, and picked up the bike – it was another Honda 100. Leaving one bag of unnecessary items at “Widiana”, I set off northwards through attractive paddy terraces.

I headed for the Batur area, and was soon looking down at Danau (Lake) Batur, with Mount Batur standing above it to the west. I rode down to the lake shore and watched fishermen paddling around in dugout canoes.

From Batur I headed uphill to the west, where I started shivering again, but it was just the cool wind hitting me – not a return of the fever. I felt better after a lunch of hot soup, and then followed an entertainingly tortuous road downhill to the coast road, where I stopped for a rest on the beach.

A little way back inland I went to visit the Pura Dalem Jagaraga temple where there were curious “ancient” carvings depicting, amongst other things, a Dutch invasion – an early 20th century car and 2 biplanes were visible amongst the bas-relief art.

After a drink and a rest, I headed on round the coast road to the east, swinging gradually south east as I reached the eastern end of Bali. After riding over several flimsy bridges over the many rivers that flow to the coast, and stopping to refuel, I eventually arrived at the village of Tulamben, where I checked in to the elegantly named (but quite simple) Paradise Palm Beach bungalows.

I was still feeling weak, and though I therefore felt in great need of food, when I actually had food in front of me I had little appetite. But my temperature is still normal, so I’m sure I will get my appetite and strength back soon.

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